Part 2: Italy Trip

Italy was beautiful, facsinating and surprising. On previous trips we have either had no expectations or were prepared fully on what to expect, but most our preconcieved notions about Italy were challenged throughout our trip. We landed in Rome at 8 a.m. on Saturday, and quickly found our first planning error. Instead of taking a cab directly to our hotel and picking up our rental car when we were ready to leave Rome, we chose to navigate and drive ourselves (this has never been a problem for us before). Now, normally Teddy and I work pretty well together when traveling but Italian drivers, roads, traffic and the language barrier worked against us. In a word, Italian drivers are INSANE! If there are traffic laws in Italy no one follows them and this was true throughout our whole trip but especially in Rome and Florence. The roads are also very interesting, they change names with almost every block and the three maps we had didn't always denote the name changes. It made it very difficult to know exactly where we were. What should have been a 10 minute trip took us about an hour. We finally did find our hotel and were very happy to discover that it was within a few blocks of the Vatican. So for the next couple of days we could park our car (for $50.00!)and walk or take the bus. Usually I would never pay that to park a car but our lives and marriage were not worth the risk of driving.
After we got settled we headed over to St. Peter's Square and for surprise #1. Television broadcasts do not do it justice. Its sheer size was surprising and the amount of people was staggering. It was also filthy. There was litter everywhere. Now, I know I'm not the best representation of the Catholic Church (understatement!), but come on people this is one the most sacred spiritual places in the world, show a little respect. I would hope they aren't littering in Mecca. Once I got past the litter and beggars and con artists, I was able to fully appreciate how cool it was to be at the Vatican. We went into St. Peter's Basilica and where once again we were stunned by its enormity and beauty. This was the church of all churches and once again television does not do it justice. The canopy is huge and ornate and the art was breathtaking. I love visiting churches and I really wanted to take in everything here. What an amazing testament of faith.

The next day we decided to tour Rome, as the Vatican Museums were not open on Sunday. The hotel staff told us we should take the bus or a cab to all the sites as it was to far to walk. So at first we took their advice and took a cab to the Pantheon. Once we got there we realized that we could have walked it in 15 minutes and saved some money. We decided to see if we could walk the rest of Rome, after all we're young and in good shape. We found that to be a good choice for we got to see the best sights of Rome and got a great feel for the city (as well as getting a head start on working off all that amazing food and gelato we would partake in.)

The Pantheon was hidden gem. Here sat an ancient relic in the middle of residential neighborhood. It was once a pagan temple the Christians converted into a church (of course) and it holds the tomb of Raphael. We then went on to the Trevi fountain which is awesome and then on to the Roman Ruins and the Coliseum. The Coliseum sits a the end of a major boulevard and the ruins of ancient Rome are alongside that same street. It was so strange to see these amazing ancient pieces of the past amid all the traffic and hustle and bustle of Rome. WOW! It was everything I had imagined. After seeing the Coliseum we headed for the Spanish Steps and stopped for lunch and a gelato and to see a couple of churches. Parts of the Spanish Steps were under renovation and they were crazy crowded so it was hard to apprecite them fully. It's probably better to see the in the movies (that way you don't take the chance of being accosted). While going down them we witnessed and man physically assaulted by two young women trying to take his camera bag and he was not a small guy. In Rome watch out for your belongings! We then headed back to our hotel and some rest before venturing out for dinner. The next day we went to see the Vatican Museums which includes the Sistine Chapel. We got there 30 minutes before it opened so we only had to stand in line about an hour. The museums surprised me as well. I was shocked that the Vatican would have such a large collection of relics from ancient pagan cultures. And I was surprised and disappointed that during some of the most interesting and beautiful parts, you could not stay a few moments and soak it all in. You were constantly kept moving. I would have loved to have stopped a few times (especially in the map room) to just study and admire. That's probably why they sell so many books. The Sistine Chapel was beautiful and Michelangelo was a genius but it was much smaller than I had pictured it. Although it could have been all the people. Seeing the Vatican was awesome and an experience I will never forget. I just wish I could have caught a glimpse of the Pope. Oh, and by the way the roof didn't fall in on me either.
















The next day we got our car from the parking garage and headed to Tuscany. We actually stayed at a castle on the border of the Tuscany and Umbria regions. Castle Montegualandro which was first owned by Charlemagne, sits on top of a hill overlooking both regions. Our host Claudio tolds us it's location played a very important role in the castle's history. Claudio was a great storyteller and was happy to give us tour and share its history with us. I loved every minute of it. If you ever go to Italy you must stay at Montegualandro. The prices are very reasonable, the area is gorgeous and Claudio and Franca are so vey nice. We stayed here the rest of our trip and took day trips. My favorite was Assisi, home to St. Francis, my favorite Saint (yes, believe it or not I have a favorite Saint). Assisi was a beautiful little medieval hillside town with an incredible view of the countryside.

We also went to Siena and visited Il Campo, the famous town square, and their amazing cathedral. If you don't like churches, Italy is not for you, we must have seen fifteen or more. The Duomo (cathedral) in Siena is constructed out of different colors of marble inside and out. On the inside the floor is a series of mosiac marble murals, that they have to keep covered in order to protect the art. They rotate and uncover and rope off as many as they can. It really is a site to behold. Beside lunch and dinner on Il Campo, the best part of Siena for me was going to see St. Catherine's head and finger at the Basilica of St. Dominic. I have seen relics but never the actual holy mummified remains of a Saint. Unfortunately,I couldn't take a picutre but I do have a postcard.

On then to Florence, in which I was a little disappointed. I was expecting this beautiful city, the heart of Italian art. What we found was dirty and crowded and everywhere there were beggars, long lines and charges for absolutely everything. If they could have charged you everytime you sneezed they would have. We had made reservations in advance for the two premiere galleries, the Academie and Uffizi so at least we didn't have to wait in those lines. The Academie is were David is housed and again I say WOW! David is nothing like I expected, it is much taller than I thought and the detail is astonishing. Michelangelo really was a genuis!! At Uffizi we saw some of Botticelli's most breathtaking pieces as well as a piece by the one famous female Renaissance artist, Artimisa Gentileschi. By the time we left Florence we had pretty much O.D.ed on Renaissance art, but I'm so glad to have been able to experience it. Teddy and I like to say we visited three different countries while in Italy; Italy, Vatican City and San Marino. We went to San Marino to see Teddy's dream, the Ferrari Museum. The drive was incredible. Umbria should get just as much credit as Tuscany for its beauty. Teddy was very happy to see the Ferrari's and I learned a lot. After the museum we set out to explore San Marino and found it to be a very pleasant surprise. We rode a sky tram up to the old town center and explored the old castles and the town. I would highly recommend the visit. It was beautiful and clean with nice shopping, great restuarants and historical sites. With the stunning view you could even see the Mediterranean.

On our last day in Tusacany we drove to the nearby hillsdie town of Cortona, made famous in the the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. I think we both fell in love. We happened to be there on market day and the sights and smells were indescribable. We enjoyed a very leisurely lunch and after going back to Montegualandro for a rest we then went back to Cortona for gelato and and evening stroll through their local park. The next day we headed back to Rome to say good-bye to Italy. I would say a great time was had by all and we were glad to be getting back to our life and our Isabella.

I would be remiss if I did not mention the food. We ate the most amazing, incredible, delectable food I have ever eaten. I am shocked we did not come home thirty pounds heavier (it must have been all that walking). While in Tuscany we ate at a place called la Tufa (recommended by the Vittoe's). The food was so good and the service so friendly that we ate there 4 of the 6 nights were in Tuscany, trying something new each time. The Italians may not know how to drive but their cooking totally makes up for it.

Thanks for checking back! I know its a little late but it took me longer than I thought it would.

Before I go I want to say Thank you to John and Chris Vittoe and Mandi for all the wonderful travel advice and recommendations! They helped make our trip so great! I also want to Thank my parents for taking such great care of our girl so we could enjoy Italy!

214 days left with Bush! The count down goes on!

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